The post here is somewhat short, but the video will be detailed. The big cut was a big task. I think the preparation, buildup, stress, and anxiety made this one of the most intense days in the shop–at least this far.

Heat: Keeping the shop heated is key. The material will get brittle below 70-ish degrees. Some people get away with it, but I know enough to know that this is pressing your luck. The odds of an error happening are exponentially greater as you dip below 70 degrees. With cutting, you’re likely to see chips and flakes. This isn’t catastrophic, and can likely be hidden. With drilling, you get cracks. In my experience, drilling is the far more dangerous maneuver with this stuff.

Measurements: As I found with the hole, measurements are tough with this piece. While the frame “locks in” the positioning, it can still move about. Once I had it clamped (which requires more than a few clamps) I marked per the instructions, 3/32″ (I think…) in front of the front hoop.

Tools: After various testing on the other cuts, I found the mini-Ryobi cutting tool (brushless) with a standard 3.5″ cutoff wheel cut the best line. The plastic disc had too wide a kerf, and was able to veer too much. The cutoff disc locks in and is laser straight. The tool has long batter life, and great visibility, and is extremely nimble and lightweight with the smaller batter pack. (Which is plenty for the big-cut. Big cut, small pack.)

Bracing: Lots of moving blankets across the two build tables. Duct tape, and clamping cauls to keep the piece from moving as interior tension is released with the cut. This all worked as planned.

I think in all, the cut took about 20-30 minutes. It felt like a couple hours and a couple minutes all at once. I was incredibly happy to have it completed, and the edge looked great prior to sanding–though I did sand nearly immediately to prevent chipping or cracking.

I was excited to see how the elements would fit, so I took the windscreen to the plan and propped it up. It looks great.